A founder’s guide to understanding fine jewellery craftsmanship — and what to look for when quality really matters.
When I first started in jewellery, I could tell when a piece wasn’t made well, even the expensive ones, even the stunning designs. I couldn’t explain it then; something about them just felt messy and unrefined, but I couldn’t pinpoint why. It wasn’t technical knowledge, just instinct. Later, working in the industry, I realised what I’d been noticing all along: it came down to the precision and care of the craftsmanship, the details.
Good design doesn’t always mean good craftsmanship. Some expensive pieces are priced based on material value or brand name rather than the quality of their craftsmanship. So here’s how to be more discerning, so you’re not fooled by glossy images or perfect store lighting.
A note before we begin
Not all jewellery follows the same rules. Handmade, ethnic, or vintage pieces are made differently and often have their own beauty. They might not meet modern standards of precision, but that’s part of what makes them special.
These guidelines mostly apply to modern fine jewellery, where craftsmanship and finish are expected to be technically refined. Fine jewellery can come in many forms. If you’re buying vintage, some of these points still apply, but older pieces were made with more rudimentary techniques. They have their own charm: imperfect, human, and full of character. With the evolution of technique and precision in modern craftsmanship, certain principles hold across most new pieces.
1. Heft and hollowness
Weight is often the first thing your hands notice. Always look out for gram weight disclosure online, not necessarily to gauge value but as an indicator of heft. The same two pieces may look identical on different sites, but the difference in weight can be worlds apart.
Not every piece needs to feel heavy; some designs are meant to be light or hollow for comfort. But when a piece feels too light or overly carved out, it often means durability has been compromised. There’s a fine balance between lightness and strength.
A well-made piece has presence. It feels solid without being bulky, delicate without feeling fragile. If it feels flimsy, it usually is.
2. Soldering, polishing, and finish
The cleanest work is invisible.
Look closely at where the metal joins. You shouldn’t see rough seams, excess solder, or burn marks. The polish should be smooth and consistent throughout, even in the less visible areas.
Poor finishing often hides beneath surface shine. True craftsmanship looks effortless because every stage underneath the polish was done carefully.
3. Chain quality
A good chain moves like fabric.
Run it gently through your fingers; it should glide, not snag. Even fine chains should feel strong when tugged lightly. The links should be even and symmetrical. If it catches or twists awkwardly, that’s a red flag.
A smooth, fluid chain is a sign of precision in the links and good soldering at every joint. That subtle flow separates quality chains from ones that only look good at first glance.
4. Clasps and hinges
The small, functional parts reveal a lot.
Clasps should close securely with a clean, confident click. Hinges on bracelets should move smoothly, not loose or stiff. Jewellery made for daily wear needs to feel both secure and easy to handle.
Functionality might sound unglamorous, but it’s part of good design. The best pieces balance form and comfort. Think of it like a sports car: beautiful, yes, but built to perform, not just to be admired.
5. Claws and stone settings
Claws should sit at the perfect balance between delicate and sturdy.
Whether it’s large stones or small ones, look closely at the claws. The neatness, symmetry, and proportion of each claw say a lot about the maker’s skill. They should be sleek and consistent, allowing the stone to shine without distraction.
Unless thicker claws are an intentional design choice, they should feel minimal and almost invisible. Good claws shouldn’t catch on clothes or feel rough to the touch. For larger stones, check how they’re set. The girdle (the edge around the stone) should align cleanly with the metal. In a bezel setting, the metal should be smooth and even all around, sitting flush with the stone’s surface.
6. Microsetting and pavé work
Look closely at pavé or micro-set stones, and you can immediately tell how much care went into them. The stones should line up neatly and sit flush with the metal. The surface should feel smooth when you run your finger over it.
The more exposed the stone, the more skill it takes. Fine pavé work shimmers as one continuous sheet of light. When it’s done poorly, you’ll notice uneven gaps, bulky metal, or stones sitting at different heights. Under good lighting, claws in well-made pavé almost disappear; in lesser work, they dominate the stone.
For me, this is the biggest giveaway and the part I pay the most attention to. Everything else takes effort, but setting work, especially microsetting, takes time, precision, and real skill. If there’s one thing I prioritise above all else, it’s the quality of the setting, particularly when it comes to smaller stones.
7. Gemstones and diamonds
This applies to both diamonds and coloured gemstones. I’ll go deeper into this in a separate piece, but for now, a few things are worth noting.
Although it often comes down to personal preference, some people appreciate inclusions — the tiny spots or feathers that show a stone’s individuality — or natural variations in hue. Others prefer cleaner stones.
Avoid stones with visible cracks, dark windows, excessive cloudiness, or bowties. These flaws don’t add character; they reduce both the stone’s beauty and structural integrity.
8. The extra mile
A subtle but telling sign of quality is the finish on the unseen parts. Look at the underside of a ring or pendant. If it’s polished and smooth, it means the maker took extra care.
That level of attention doesn’t make the piece more functional, but it shows pride in the craft. Those small details separate fine jewellery from ordinary pieces. They signal patience, precision, and respect for the work itself.
A final thought
All of this mostly applies to modern fine jewellery, but the heart of it — proportion, structure, and feel — applies to everything. Even handmade or vintage pieces that follow different techniques still reveal care in their own way.
When jewellery is well-made, you can tell immediately. You don’t need to be told that it’s good; you can feel it.
If there’s one takeaway, look at the metalwork and the stones together. Look closely enough to see whether everything is neat, aligned, and intentional.
— Sasha, Founder of NAMIRI